© 1957 by Oxford University Press
THE THEORY OF SYMMETRICAL GRAVITY WAVES OF FINITE AMPLITUDE
IV.
STEADY, SYMMETRICAL, PERIODIC WAVES IN A CHANNEL OF FINITE DEPTH
( King's College London )
The perfect fluid problem of two-dimensional finite amplitude gravity waves in a channel of finite depth has been investigated and the four quantities, wave velocity (c), wave amplitude (a), wavelength (
), and depth of the liquid (h), are shown to depend upon two parameters u and k, where O
u
umax and O
k
1. When u = umax the wave is on the point of breaking. Tables have been prepared of four combination of c, a,
and h against u and k from which it is possible to deternine (say) the wave velocity when the three quantities a, h and
are given. An analytical formula is also derived for the relation between a, h, and
when the wave is on the point of breaking.