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The Quarterly Journal of Mechanics and Applied Mathematics 1977 30(2):157-173; doi:10.1093/qjmam/30.2.157
© 1977 by Oxford University Press
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ON MASS TRANSPORT VELOCITY DUE TO PROGRESSIVE WAVES

B. D. DORE

( Department of Mathematics, University of Reading )

A double boundary-layer model is employed to investigate the mass transport velocity due to two-dimensional progressive gravity waves of large amplitude. For deep-water waves, the value of this velocity in the free-surface boundary layers is found to increase with distance from the generating region. In the far field, the mass transport velocity is found to dominate the Stokes drift velocity. Some qualitative discussion of the mass transport velocity field is also given for the case of shallow-water waves. Mathematical models are discussed both for fully-maintained and spatially-damped progressive waves.


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